food freedom

Watching a garden grow

Food sovereignty is not just about food and medicine but about reclaiming our reverence for life.
— Gerardo Marin, Rooted in Community
The shredded greenhouse tents in April. (April 2014, A.Gross)

The shredded greenhouse tents in April. (April 2014, A.Gross)

Every week, the food and garden projects grow in La Plant. When we arrived on the Reservation at the end of April, we were welcomed by a dismal scene: dilapidated, shredded greenhouse tents, lots of debris scattered around the garden, cold temperatures and, of course, tons of muddy, gumbo soil. Yet, as June begins, the garden project is quite a different picture. It's one of progress, one of hope and one soon to be filled with delicious, nourishing food.

I entered the food projects with my own ambitious exceptions, primarily based on my own production and growing experience on the East Coast. Spoiler alert: South Dakota is not Connecticut. I knew about the poor soil quality, the rampant food insecurity and the general state of the Reservation economy, so my plan seemed logical:

  • Start a garden.
  • Begin selling at the area farmers' market.
  • Make it self-sufficient and community-run.
  • Do it all sustainably, organically and holistically.
  • Promote food sovereignty.

While these are tangible goals, all actions must be intentional, made with a keen knowledge of the history of the region, and an awareness of the person or group of individuals implementing these plans. If I want to work toward food sovereignty, or freedom, resilience and longevity of La Plant's food system, growing a garden in the middle of the northern Great Plains is a weird, ambitious project, primarily because of the history of the land.

Among the Lakota and many other native cultures, the concept of  “ownership” does not exist in their language. Land and all of the elements are shared and collective resources, reflecting a reverence for life and Mother Earth. While territorial disputes existed before the influence of white settlers to the region, both the Fort Laramie Treaty of 1868 and the General Allotment Act, or Dawes Act, of 1887, divided the Great Sioux Nation into smaller, individual reservations and also implemented the allotment process, which broke up communal land into smaller, family holdings. 

(1) Compost from the old hay bale system. (2) Cleaning up and digging in. (3) Our new three-bin compost unit! (4) The hole digging for the high tunnel begins. (5) The first ribs of the high tunnel are up! (6) Rogue bean seeds sprout in the raised beds. (7) Our tomato and pepper transplants arrive! (A.Gross)

Today, if you were to take an aerial shot of the Reservation based on political ownerships or leases of the tribal land, it would look like a piece of Swiss cheese. Reservations are considered sovereign, independent territory - technically their own nations. However, a number of U.S. government treaties promoted displacement, land ownership by non-Indians and created the patchwork-like nature of tribal lands. In reference to poverty, unemployment and land ownership on reservations in South Dakota, Nicholas Kristof writes:

…Reservations are often structured in ways that discourage private investment. Tribal lands often aren’t deeded to individuals but are common property, and tribal law means that outside investors can’t rely on uniform commercial codes and may have no reliable recourse if they are cheated.

Further, the arid lands on the Reservation just can’t support many people using traditional, Euro-American agricultural methods, coupled with a fledgling economy. Rural areas throughout the Great Plains states, including those with overwhelmingly white populations, are losing inhabitants and remain among the poorest in the country.

You can see how implementing any sort of project can be made all the more difficult because of this bioregional history. I can devote another post - and maybe a book - by further exploring my involvement as a white person in the food and garden growing projects on the Reservation, but I'll save that for another time. Rather, I wholeheartedly believe the garden is just the catalyst needed to rebuild the local economy, build communal pride, and cultivate self-worth among residents of La Plant. As we finish the high tunnel project, utilize the new compost system (all made out of reclaimed wood, including pieces from the old powwow grounds), build a ginormous billboard/windbreak for the garden (yes, a billboard - jealous??), complete the fence line, construct raised beds, and, of course, plant and reap the harvest, I can feel that change is tangible.

My original plan needs to shift, but not dramatically. Why? Because kids want to be on the compost team (yes, that's a thing they created), women want to know how certain vegetables feed their bodies, and people are even willing to tend to the garden. The plants and community are taking root, and I'm excited and humbled to both witness and be a part of this living, thriving collaboration. 

Kids and compost!! (Photo by the incredibly talented Joshua Dufresne!)

Kids and compost!! (Photo by the incredibly talented Joshua Dufresne!)

Native foods & foodways: Insight from Winona LaDuke

Food has a culture. It has history. It has stories, it has relations, that tie us to our food.
— Winona LaDuke

I came across this 2012 TEDxTalk from Winona LaDuke, environmentalist, native rights advocate and food sovereignty/justice activist...and author of my favorite book. She's an inspiring, insightful individual and a badass. What I've learned from LaDuke and in my research on Teton/Lakota foodways is that traditional foods concerns all of us. It's about preserving, conserving and upholding genetic and biological diversity. It's about reclaiming our food system through or in conjunction with learning to respect traditional food culture and wisdom and making us more intuitive, respectful eaters and citizens of the earth. It's about taking pride in yourself, your work and your unique culture through food. Watch and listen to her talk below, and be sure to check out the White Earth Land Recovery Project and Native Harvest to learn more.

Seedy business: A discovery of ancient grains; "The Farmer, The Architect and The Scientist"

As I'm learning about regional seed saving in the Northeast, I'm coming across more articles in the mainstream media about seed saving. The NPR blog The Salt just reported on a team of archeologists who discovered and confirmed the existence of stone cultivation tools, ancient grains and a possible farming community of sorts in an area of Iran, near the Iraq border. From the article:

Before long, they hit pay dirt: The sediments were rich with artifacts. "Sculpted clay objects, clay cones, depictions of animals and humans," says [Nicholas] Conard [archaeologist at the University of Tubingen].

[Simone Riehl, an archeologist] confirmed that the grains were indeed varieties of lentils, barley and peas. She also identified a range of nuts and grasses, and a kind of wheat called Emmer, known to be a commonly grown crop in later centuries throughout the Middle East.

But most of the grains Riehl looked at were pre-agricultural. "They were cultivating what we consider wild progenitors of modern crops," says Riehl.

In other words, 12,000 years ago, people were simply taking wild plants and growing them in fields. They hadn't started breeding crops yet, selecting varieties for yield and other desirable qualities.

How cool!

It's also interesting to not only learn from the past, but also discover how individuals are seed saving to preserve edible and cultural heritage and improve food security, sovereignty, farmer equity and adapt to changes in growing conditions. Dr. Debal Deb in India is one such individual; he's saved 920 varieties of rice that he stores in a community seed back. He's profiled in the short film The Farmer, The Architect and The Scientist. Take a look: